On November 8th, the Great Cemetery of La Paz transforms. Thousands of people arrive carrying skulls nestled in wooden boxes, glass cases, or even elaborate hats. They aren't mourning; they are celebrating. They crown the skulls with fresh hydrangeas, place lit cigarettes between their teeth, and offer them sips of coca-cola or grains of coca leaves.

The story of the ñatitas is a story of . The believers provide the spirits with attention, beauty, and "tastes" of the living world. In return, the spirits are expected to watch over the house, protect the family from thieves, and ensure the children do well in school.

While much of the world hides death behind polished mahogany and manicured lawns, the people of La Paz keep their ancestors—and sometimes total strangers—a bit closer. A ñatita is a human skull, often passed down through families or "adopted" from abandoned graves. They aren’t seen as macabre relics, but as protective guardians.