Secret Seam -
Insert the needle into the opposite fold directly across from your starting point, moving the needle through the fold for about 14one-fourth 12one-half inch before bringing it out.
Use thread that perfectly matches the fabric color. Small Stitches: Shorter stitches (approx. 14one-fourth inch) result in a more secure and truly invisible seam. Secret Seam
If the stitches are visible, the tension is too loose; if the fabric puckers, it is too tight. Insert the needle into the opposite fold directly
To finish, take a tiny stitch, pass the needle through the resulting loop twice to create a secure knot, and bury the thread tail inside the item. Tips for Success the tension is too loose